“O” Scale Adlake/Racor Switchstand TAS-100 Thank you for the purchase of our Racor Swichstand Model 22 with the Adlake Lantern. The first brass, lighted, manually operated switchstand in any scale. A few notes about the switchstand that hopefully will make your installation a little easier. The two stops on either side of the Lower Housing have not been filed down. If in your installation you have more than a 90 degree turn, then you can file these stops down to achieve a little more movement of the small gear which is controlled by the Throwing Lever with the ball at the end. Not all switch tracks have the same amount of throw and we allowed for this on this first version of the switchstand. It is very important that when you mount the switchstand that it is secured to the ties so that it does not move at all. If it moves then you are losing “throw” which could mean your switchtrack doesn’t fully meet with the rail to complete the “throw”.
For your linkage any number of items will work. We have used cutoff LED or resistor leads that will bend 90 degrees without breaking. Piano wire may be the best wire to use of all. To assist you in your installation we have given you an option to connect to either of four holes in the Large Gear for the linkage to connect to. The holes are approximately .035 in. . Make sure that your linkage is straight and free of any kinks which will take away from the “throw” of the switchstand. Do a test run and pick the hole on the tab that best fits the length of the linkage that will give you a complete throw. Not all turnouts have the same throw. It is very important to do this step before you mount the switchstand. Please checkout my website www.all-aboard-trains.com . Look under Downloads for Linkage Options for the Adlake switchstand. This will explain in more detail some other options for installing the switchstand. The Lantern is not mounted on the stand to allow you to mount your switchstand and determine the amount of throw that you will need. This will allow you to mount the Lantern so you can get as close to a 90 degree turn on your Lantern if your switch needs more throw. In this manner, looking down the track you should see the Lantern aligned with the track and not turned more or less 90 degrees from the edge of the track. Once you have determined the amount of throw that you need then you can mount the Lantern over the light bulb and cement it in place with a very small amount of Red Locktite or some type of quicksetting superglue. Be careful to not use too much or you may glue the Large Gear to the Upper Housing and keep the switchstand from turning.
When the installation is complete all you have to do is connect the two wires of the 12 V bulb to a separate 12VDC supply. Your switchstands will look great glowing along your trackside without flickering from any power surges or dropouts. If you are running a DCC layout you can connect this bulb to a DCC output. This bulb is designed to run at up to 30ma. without damage so it is pretty hardy. Either way a 12DC supply or DCC supply should be fine for your application. (One cautionary note when operating the switchstands. When you turn the Throwing Lever do not force the throw. The gears are made of a very hard bronze and will last for a very long time if you are gentle with the throw, during what could be a long break in time because some switches may not get thrown very much at all. So keep this in mind when you are ready to switch your tracks.) I hope you enjoy adding this missing detail to your layout and I hope it really adds some finality to your trackwork. We welcome your feedback and pictures of your installations and thanks again for your interest in our product line.