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Linkage Options for the Adlake Switchstand

  Here are a number of suggestions for installing our switchstands. I have been experimenting with a number of different ways to install the switch stand and the following are probably the easiest to do, if you do some measuring before you start the installation.

The amount of throw that the Adlake stand will move the rails is .080" at the first hole.  (Some of you who bought the first stands have only one hole to work with. The version that I am shipping now has 4 holes. If you need more throw I have a three hole extension that I will send you, if you will send me an email with your address in it and just ask for it.)

I have soldered this extension to the base of the stands now and that gives three more holes to extend the throw. Checkout my crude drawing to see the amount of throw extension by each hole. The throw starts at .080" on the first hole and extends out to .260" on the final hole.  If you have an old Atlas switch track it needs a throw of approximately .250". Check your switch track and measure the amount of throw that is required to complete the throw. 

If you have the one hole version, at this point, you know that you can get .080" of throw plus the stops on either side of the stand can be filed down to gain more.  In the drawing below you can see that there is about .071" of possible throw that can be added to the throw by filing down one stop.  I would use a Dremel tool to do this especially if the switch stand is already installed.  With all of this being said then you can probably use a straight piece of wire as follows in Option A below to complete your installation.

A. The quickest way to install the switchstand is to use a straight piece of piano wire or similar stiff wire. With a 90 degree bend in the wire connect it to the switchstand. Connect the other end to the turnout tab in a similar manner. You can then place the switchstand on the extended ties making sure that the throw arm of the switchstand is in the correct position to throw the switch.  Throwing the arm from right to left will pull the rails toward the switchstand and throwing the arm from left to right will push the rails away from the switchstand.  Now you can spike the switchstand to the ties.  The most important aspect of this process is taking out the slack in the linkage.  Any slack in the linkage takes away from the amount of throw possible.

 B. I will soon have enough parts to start shipping the turnbuckle option that fits between the switch stand and switch track.  Checkout the pics below showing the part and installation. In this installation I have filed off the 4th hole and installed the turnbuckle on the 3rd hole.  The reason being is that you have to cut away a portion of the tie so that the extended throw has room to turn when the switch is thrown. You could also file off the outer two holes to shorten the amount of room that is needed even more for the throw. Thus cutting down on the amount of tie that needs to be cut away. At this point the 2nd hole is probably the hole that will be the most advantageous to use.

A side note to all of this is the limitations I have run into in trying to only use the one hole that is attached to the bottom of the large gear without the use of the 3 hole extender.

In order to use the turnbuckle a 1.6mm bolt and nut are needed to secure the turnbuckle to the 3 hole extender.  This almost does away with any play where the two are joined. Any smaller size of bolt allows play in this area.  The turnbuckle has a large hole in the forked end which requires this setup.

The one hole on the large gear is a problem at this point because it is to small for this bolt and you have to grind away a portion of this area to allow the forked end to slide over the hole to accept the bolt. I am saying all of this to make this point.  I want to get away from the 3 hole extender so that you don't have to hog out the tie area to allow room for this extension. I am working on a modification but it will require a mold change if it works to the large gear.  I have more limitations there that I won't get into now but that is the goal to have one hole and the turnbuckle setup. Between the stops on the switch stand and the turnbuckle there is more than enough adjustment to give you the necessary throw that you need.  

If you look at the pics below this is the setup that I used for this old Atlas switch with the huge, over .250", gap.  I have to say that I am really happy with the turnbuckle and as soon as I receive some parts I am waiting on, I will start to ship them out.  Hopefully that should be the 2nd week in January.

We have come a long way and i like this setup but I am still working on more scale like parts that have more detail in them.  Stay tuned and thanks to all of you guys that have bought the product and given me encouragement along the way.  

IMG 7889bIMG 7910IMG 7923IMG 7924








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